Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Making sense of styling - fashion psychology update

I'm still getting my head round the psychology of fashion and it's relationship with the ego, the characterisation of someone and fashion design as art.  As a stylist I'm not going to make people follow instructions about what should be in their wardrobe, I think they should have what's needed and wanted to put outfits together to enhance the person they are in a given situation, wearing clothes that suit their taste and reflect their lifestyle.  The starting point is to emulate the style of a favourite character in a similar scenario - visualise the person you want to be and use styling to create and develop that persona.  You want to take the essence of someone's energy and make it your own.

In trying to understand the nature of a shopaholic I see the use of clothing helps gain identity ie developing the ego.  The continued need for a lot of shopping reinforces that sense of self.  You need more individuality in a uniform environment like a corporate workplace or school - which is the time in your life you want to be individual but it would be more ideal if you got past that need once you've achieved self belief which is more difficult for some people.  I feel despondent when fashion is consumed by people who feel the need to constantly reward themselves to feel good - who can't express adequately by thoughts, feelings and actions and feel important via their core id.  Continually purchasing clothes is the best thing in their lives - that's my definition of retail therapy, the therapy being a means to gain positive reinforcement of their ego - they treat themselves to feel special because they don't have other adequate means to feel special, such as perceiving they're not loved, attractive, intelligent etc.  It sometimes seems this is the new salvation for unhappy souls.

Woman traditionally use fashion for recognition because men get recognition for their work talents automatically  Men traditionally receive recognition and expect it without doing any more than be themselves to get it.  The idea of "metrosexuals" is confusing to some guys, they don't get it.  The way I see it is in the context of manipulating society.  The hetero mans world just gets smaller so there's no place for him except the solace of his own headspace where he escapes by getting wankered on beer, fags and drugs..  He's rendered powerless by being made to be influenced by "metrosexuals".  Testosterone plays a part in motivation - if men are concerned  with focusing their energies on themselves and being approved of and appreciated they're not going to be asserive, defiant and rebel to become the authority figure.  This all goes towards calming defiance by realigning the priorities via manipulating the ego.

Lady Gaga's corralling the emos is why she's allowed and supported, it's not a genuine motivation to empower weaker people - once emos gain acceptance they'll probably lose their motivation and defiance.  I love LG's appreciation of high fashion and I see Couture as art.  The constant in your face marketing from the fast fashion industry makes me lose interest as it takes away what makes it special.  You can't be special every day - well, that's the point - it's filling a hole in the lives of people who need to be made to feel special every day because that's maybe all they have.  These are the folk who need to find a way to gain self belief beyond their image..  Once their needs are attended to and they don't rely on a quick fix consumer habit fashion can be serious once again.  Having watched a Vivienne Westwood interview I've found a great way to sum up my view: "Fashion is art and protest on the streets".

 William James, an American philosopher and psychologist who was also trained as a physician was one of the leading thinkers of the late nineteenth century and is believed by many to be one of the most influential philosophers the United States has ever produced.  In  The Sartorial Self: William James’ philosophy of dress by Celia Watson I found many statements and paragraphs to help understand from other people’s points of view.

Neither in tailoring nor in legislating does man proceed by mere Accident, but the hand is ever guided on by mysterious operations of the mind. In all his Modes, and habilatory endeavors, an Architectural Idea will be found lurking; his Body and theCloth are the site and materials whereon and whereby his beautiful edifice, of a Person, is to be built.—Thomas Carlyle, Sartor Resartus

Yet to many readers, an examination of James’s dress might seem a frivolous and trifling endeavor: The idea that any serious development of the personality takes place at the closet door will, at first blush, appear to exaggerate the importance of the mundane daily duty of dressing.  Furthermore, some readers may think a study of James’s clothing is downright petty: Is it not, after all, unfair to draw conclusions about a man on the basis of his appearance? (Celia Watson).

By Lotze: “On the contrary, the wearer herself is by feeling directly present in all the graceful curves that with feather weight touch but a few points of the skin, and yet through these points excite the most distinct sensation of the breath, lightness, and softness of their sweep. Nay, even the pleasure afforded by such a sight is derived far less from the pleasing effect of the drapery which we see than from the fact that we can transport ourselves by thought into the imaginative, joyous, or dainty vital feeling which the myriad petty impressions from the garments must infuse into the form which they conceal.”

From Lotze’s passage the reader can glean one clue to the importance James placed on clothes: They are capable of being felt as a part of the wearer’s own body, fabric extensions of the flesh.  James explained, “is the recognition one gets from his mates. We are not only gregarious animals, liking to be in sight of our fellows, but we have an innate propensity to get ourselves noticed, and noticed favorably, by our kind.”

Going further to describe the fact that we choose what we wear “the free man can—and must—decide. He issues, from within his spiritual self, a “fiat of the will.” Although habit may ensure that a person leaves the house with shoes tied and pants zipped, it is the spiritual self that decides on the particular colour, fabric, and cut of the trousers and whether the shoes will be leather, or canvas, or otherwise.  Thus, in the daily act of dressing, the individual deliberates; he chooses what information he wishes to convey about himself, what garments he wants to don as extensions of his own body, and which elements of his wardrobe best reflect his idea of himself. Clothing is a form of self-expression, a way to allude to attributes of one’s most essential being, one’s place in the world, or one’s sense of beauty. Kingfishers catch fire, politicians wear red ties; the self announces its attributes with clothing..”  To William James, clothing was about self-remembrance and self-awareness—not “self-forgetfulness” as was the etiquette of clothing at the time, to remain as inconspicuous as possible.

Several historians have pointed to the relationship between James’s literary style and his artistic sensibility; his appearance gave color and atmosphere to his philosophy. John Dewey wrote that “[James] was an artist who gave philosophic expression to the artist’s sense of the unique, and to his love of the individual.”

James recognized that certain choices—decisions about dress among them—were necessary in defining the self.  James’s clothes were appropriate to his personality, to his writing, and to his thought. His thinking was marked by color and creativity, and in his dress he made choices that signified—and perhaps contributed to—those attributes.  Our actions and decisions he would argue, chart a course for our minds, while simultaneously our minds are reflected in our outward selves.







Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Checkmate Fashion Show


Eris confronts the reality in a power struggle for everyman. The queen beats her opposition and releases the energy in people to achieve the potency of their own lives. The premise is the battle between the creative and corporate consumerism which the creatives ultimately win and take control of their future.

Exciting Scottish designers are showcasing their talent in an exciting performance fashion show. There will be a retail area so you can buy directly from designers on the night.


Buy your tickets from Eventbrite: https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/checkmate-tickets-25693394635

Monday, May 16, 2016

Creative Therapy

Being creative can make someone a happier person by enabling them to express their ideas instead of facilitating someone else's.  It has a beneficial impact on ego and self belief by enabling a level of productivity and accomplishment through a tangible body of work other people can appreciate.

By developing precision skills and creating something of value while taking pleasure in the creative process itself, developing a portfolio which pleases the maker and is admired by other people you get a fundamental self satisfaction which boosts the ego and can go beyond that to enhancing self belief in abilities and talent.

Creative thinkers enjoy challenges, analysing and coming up with an interpretation of something.  By thinking outside the box your life can work much better for you.

Thinking ambitiously and creatively enables new opportunities, although in our commercial business focused world it can be difficult to make progress as quickly as you might like.  There's too much empirical control for a real free market so we end up with a bottleneck and unfulfilled achievers.  The example I can site best is the Scottish creative industry where it's fragmented, unorganised and very few people can slip through the bottleneck to move away from the part time jobs and make a good living doing something interesting which would really benefit the economy.  Sourcing designers for fashion shows disappoints me as I find many talented people who have gone through university and have brilliant conceptual ideas working in the fashion industry only as a sales assistant or visual merchandiser, not being able to fulfill their creativity but falling in line with an old fashioned structure, following someone else's lead, not developing ideas and new concepts.  We need investment to enable big projects to allow greater economic growth beyond retail.

This is a high cost country, so we need high cost companies investing but in addition to big ideas we need solid business plans.  As stated in this article, historically too often tricks are missed; as it states "offering a way out of our decaying industrial past, a pathway from an old world to a new" we need to keep progressing to find new ways of doing things as the old world fades and "Scotland could break free of its old economy shackles" if only we consistently had faith in our abilities.  Sometimes I really wonder why the government doesn't try to attract new high end industry, though I understand the established method of control.  It would be anarchy if people were being entrepreneurial and making good money and getting leisure time en masse and actually having power to run their own lives rather than staying safely in their routines and behaving quietly.. Truly, anarchy is not rebellious bad behaviour, it's progress beyond the established control; thinking for yourself and growing your life the way you want, not in the construct deemed desirable for all.

It's high time to reject the current wearing you out at work lifestyles, ie work your ass off for a meagre reward and get pissed, the quick route to finding your own headspace and feeling slightly rebellious againThe twisted psychology of the system has a negative effect on everyone and consumerism is exploitation of the egoWe now have lots of means of self expression, it's time to move it up a level to the next stage of consciousness beyond ego-driven self expression through image.  

Modern life can't give people the opportunities to live their lives their own way eg choosing suitable and enjoyable jobs with sensible hours as then then they wouldn't be controlled and would have time to think.  Controlling people doesn't utilise capabilities to best effect and makes for a lot of dissatisfaction.

You've got to work out how to renegotiate your way through this greed world to stay independent: to me that means being as self sufficient as possible and making authority irrelevant.  Being creative in its many forms can help you see what your talents are and utilise these to become this self sufficient person who doesn't rely on approval to have self belief.  Investing in your independent thoughts is investing in the control of your future.

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

BHS: From RIP to reinvented

Having been reading up on the demise of BHS this week, I wish I'd been able to buy it for £1, as Phillip Green did last year in the BHS takeover by Dominic Chappell.  I appreciate The Guardian's view on BHS as it described and summed up the financial dealings behind the scenes as being "bang up to date, typifying the ugly realities of the modern British way of doing business even if the retail aspect of the BHS story strikes a dated note."  I have a huge dislike, like many people, of how big businesses operate to make the greedy rich even richer at the expense of the vast majority of people.

If I'd had the chance to buy it for £1 I'd have worked my vision and made it a truly British retailer.  Imagine each branch with a brand identity as well as an individualism reflecting its local community.  Stores stocking the company's own ranges of clothing, homeware etc as well as local designers work from clothing to jewellery to furniture.  This would offer a platform to support business start ups, giving the established store a brand new innovative approach and a lot of unique stock, and really provide young companies with opportunities for development and growth.  It's online store could work wonders, selling items made in Aberdeen to customers in Bristol, the way online selling should be done.  That's how thinking outside the box should be done, as people are getting bored with the monotonous look of the high street and looking for individual style available online and creating their own identity, and that's the truer version of self expression.

Mary Portas has also written a piece about the issue, again from The Guardian :) saying she'd "add some small startups that are all young British makers or designers, housing them within a market place model and then you start a business with a point of view."  I'm pleased I see myself thinking along the right lines it seems.  Thinking like this needs to speed up and gain momentum now, not trickle slowly and be picked up by the next generation; collaboration needs to get a move on now and opportunities to take the means to accumulate more wealth for the super greedy need to be recognised and used by people who have the vision and imagination for an up to date version of retail and economy to begin.

Business

It's a really poor show now that the concept of being an entrepreneur means having the ability and gall to exploit others.
I'm seeing more often that businesses use the outdated business model of requiring (demanding?) cash up front from up & coming businesses. When the fledgling business is an artist or designer who has already made a financial commitment to produce their works surely it would be far more sensible to give them at least a period of grace before requiring cash deposits/rent to stock their goods? Instead it seems they've got to work twice as hard to continue producing and to meet extra financial overheads, and to do extra marketing which you might have thought would have been part of their rental package.
Time to have a rethink about modern business operations I think! it's all about the handover of cash and getting nothing in return, that's not business, that's greed.
To clarify, what I'm particularly thinking of is shop units in malls who charge high rents. If the rents were used to pay for good marketing then that would be ok (say a team of photographer, stylist etc) to produce good commercial images, that would be an indirect payment from designer to team to provide good images to enhance their brand.
Also, I'm thinking of shop units on Edinburgh's Royal Mile which are just turned into yet more tacky tourist outlets to make a quick quid. How about they were turned into shops to show the real face of Scotland - it's innate talent for contemporary design with some traditional references, it's productivity and that's it's genuinely inspiring. Rent free for a period to let the new business establish which is far better than having a unit lie empty. How much more attractive and inspiring would that be for travellers from all round the world to see than another Wee Jock ginger cap?  Even if a loan system was in place rather than paying up front would make establishing a business more beneficial.  Start-ups I'm thinking of are more likely to not succeed because of heavy outlays at the point of launch, and time taken up with covering costs instead of concentrating on the productivity.  I believe the commitment to the business is demonstrated by years of college and financing the production of garments, music, jewellery etc so an initial financial outlay to secure premises should be waived for a grace period at lease.    

Friday, April 22, 2016

A Great Philosopher Once Wrote...

Well, I'm the birthday girl today - 21 times two!!

Very much starting a new phase in life - nothing planned, just the way it's happening.  This year so far has been much better than the last two years altogether, things feeling like they're falling into place at the right time, better perspectives on a lot of aspects of life.  The last six months of 2015 was a process of redefining and reconciling a lot of thoughts and seeing that life is a series of interconnecting events.  Some stuff was quite stressful, but the people who helped me deal with it all are amazing and I now see the part they have in my life in a renewed way, especially one particular person :)  Also, there are some folk who come into your life and can totally change it, not in the way you expected they would, but have left it in a better place than it had been.  Someone else inspired me to get back on the right track, I didn't realise I wasn't on the correct track until their influence made me remember what was more right for me and I redirected myself  to a mindset and an attitude that was frustratingly missing.

Re my last post about redefining how I see styling and fashion etc; that was one of the things I was puzzling over and now I've nailed that through wanting to understand the psychology of fashion, art and the ego.  I bought a book on psychology the other day and I'm looking forward to getting into reading that, I'm wondering if it'll lead to taking a course in psychology - we'll see!

The positive things so far in 2016 have been starting the year off with starting to put together an online magazine around the Scottish creative industry - showing all the creativity Scotland has and the ability we have to think progressively outside the box, to be motivated and inspiring, to have valid opinions and to be able to express these well.  Then I was working on a feature film, then it was straight into Celtic Connections usherinf followed by Irish Dancing ushering for the Scottish then the World Champs.  For once in the breadnbutter job I had the opportunity to be pro-active and manage people rather than , and I was mixing with the dancers too which made a huge difference to my shifts.  I saw the Huntsman Winters War trailer which inspired me to do some gold warrior queen costume design which is still in the process of being made.

 
Then I did a wee bit of modelling on an alt photoshoot and had a brilliant time, and on the back of that decided I could put together a wee modelling portfolio of alt shoots, and combing that with my costume design.  The most entertaining shoot so far has been with me lying in a bath of milk :D

Next project on the agenda is a fashion show after a hiatus of over two years.  Got a partner in crime to plan the event with which is making all the difference.  In hindsight I don't know how I did all I used to do in the planning of events cos so much goes into it but I did so go me!  This show is following my favourite theme of the Creative VS the Corporate and me and P.I.C. (Partner In Crime) checked out the venue today which is totally perfect, and the VM loves the whole idea as it's developed so far.  Also been planning a brilliantly surreal photoshoot (styling this one) with a brilliant photographer, Photobara
involving black giant balloons, a wrought iron bed and a beach with an abandoned fishing boat.  Not giving any more away!!

And on top of that, there's the health issue which has been bugging me for the last few years which at first I thought was in intolerance to sweets, fizzy drinks and booze.  I've done a lot of research and a lot of talking with friends with general sense and insight as well as some with similar issues, and seem to have found a cause for this intolerance which will hopefully see it rectified in a few months.  It had better work - the carrot on the stick is the bottle of vodka I bought two weeks ago which will be indulged at the end of the three months!  Between diet changes and meds to change the gut bacteria levels after being on antibiotics since as far as I can remember, I'll hopefully not itch like my fleas have got fleas.  The internet's brilliant for finding so much helpful info, people with good helpful advice etc.  So now on a very healthy diet which isn't a restrictive weight loss diet, it's been making alterations to what I eat every day.  This was linked to me by a friend: http://Scientists Discover A New Link Between The Brain And The Immune System which is very interesting.

So, signing off for tonight :)

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Changing your own attitude is much easier than changing other peoples behaviour.




Thursday, April 7, 2016

Fashion Psychology

I'm needing to find a different take on styling which has more  to it than just looking cool for the sake of it, and I'm really enjoying researching the psychology of fashion. I finished reading Mind What You Wear by Prof Karen Pine last night and I'm looking for more similar titles to read.  I've also seen a few good YouTube vids.

Buying new clothes equals reinvention of self;  clothes can't change you per se but can encourage you to behave in different ways.  Adopting such behaviour traits into your personality is what changes you as a person.

Also more likely by adhering to a style demonstrates a desire to  emulate a personality or a status associated with a look eg ladylike elegance.  Rather than emulate someone else adopt and display the behaviour traits of such a person so you evolve your personality itself rather than trying to be seen as someone else.  Emulating someone else indicates under confidence in oneself by having to display the characteristics of someone else.  Make it about self reliance (and self like) and then you won't need to be as concerned about what others think as you know you've made the most of yourself from the inside out by assimilating attributes you admire into your own character, and therefore you're more likely to feel enabled to take control of your life rather than it being largely controlled by any perceived "authority" you don't think you possess.  Increased self awareness allows you to take more responsibility for your own choices and direction in life.

I think we want to consider WHY we're compelled to behave and express in certain ways, not just the reasons because. eg I'm motivated to wear sharp tailoring as I need to be taken seriously as an entrepreneur today, or I'm wearing a short skirt because it'll make me feel sexy and the REASON FOR THAT is I want to assert or reaffirm my ability to be alluring.

Fashion is about being creatively inspirational and aspirational, so I love the idea of evolving your character to it's utmost potential - that's a true aspiration of spirit rather than a material apsiration to luxury and lifestyle.  I've refined my concept of styling to use fashion as a kind of costume design, developing a character through references and themes and enabling people to feel their potential to be that person and achieve greater confidence and motivation in their own sense of self.  To me that makes sense and is a far less superficial way of utilising and enjoying clothing.  Not that there's anything wrong with enjoying clothes for their own sake, but I feel that fashion is perceived as frivolous in this business dominated world and have felt the pressure to make it more tangible than the whim of a mood, to intellectualise it.  Now I've given my own thoughts some credibility and see my role as stylist more seriously which is enough to motivate me further to develop.

 

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