Fantasy costume pieces

I've been having fun recently making fantasy costume pieces with feather trim.  These were originally inspired by my warrior queen styling research and have grown from there.  I'm nearly finished a turquoise cape and I've started making a dress - this rookie dressmaker is doing not bad for a beginner!  I've mastered threading the sewing machine and now there's no stopping me.  When I was in London the other week I had a look round Shepherd's Bush market and saw so many fantastic fabrics which have given me lots of ideas for making clothes from jackets to cocktail dresses.  Where will this end....

Published work in Westender magazine

I was contacted by the Editor of Westender, a Glasgow magazine focusing on the West End of the city's attractions and businesses, to find out if I was available to work on the fashion feature of their next issue (August/September edition).  Fortunately I was, and I soon met Suzanne and photographer Gregor for an introduction before starting to plan the shoot.

At the meeting for planning the shoot we chatted about trends and the theme they wanted to go for in the mag, which was a Paris orientented idea with quite classic looks, and the ideal location was a rooftop.  As it turned out, getting the location confirmed was the trickiest part of organising the shoot.  The subway was another option, Buchanan St has a very funky futuristic looking travelator but to use the underground network you have to book quite a while in advance and SPT does like a fairly substantial fee.

I put moodboards together for seven looks, and was formally introduced by Suzanne to the shop managers in the West End before borrowing clothing from them for the shoot.  As it turned out, getting the looks together was easy, no hiccups at all!

The shoot day was great, super location found just off George Square in the city centre, fantastic team completed by brilliant MUA Terri and lovely model Rosalind.  The day flowed so easily and was great fun, but typically the rain poured down for our last look so we went with it and went for a walk in the rain idea which Rosalind was totally game for!  I was really pleased to see the images in print a few weeks later.

I was called again a good few weeks later to find out if I could work on the October/November issue, and was really pleased to!  This theme was futuristic and metallics - my favourite - so it was a total pleasure to choose outfits for the look.  I got my moodboards planned, and checked out what the shops had and had more than seven looks prepared, which as it turned out was lucky as the pick up days were throwing problems at  me!  Three shop managers were on holiday or otherwise unavailable and the staff in the shop at the time didn't recognise me (fortunately I plan in advance and start pick up at the start of the week so I give myself a spare day if things like this happen).  So I looked back at my moodboards and changed round a couple of the ideas to give myself the number of outfits needed for the shoot and got all that I needed.  I also borrowed some striking pieces from a couple of up and coming designers, Fictional Character and Fiona Kennedy which really helped the fashion feature look amazing!  We had a brilliant location, the SWG3 venue which suited the shoot theme incredibly well and was a great place to work.

We had awesome Terri on make up again, and a lovely model called Eilidh, a photography assistant who filmed behind the scenes and again the day went by smoothly.  Seeing the images as Gregor took them was great, we were able to see the great images being caught as the day progressed.

So, it was absolutely great to be part of this fantastic team and to see my work in print in front of me, not to mention the appreciation on social media!  This week we're planning to get together to discuss the theme for the next issue, the festive one so that should be a really amazing shoot with some wonderful looks I can't wait for!

Creating alternative realities

My dislike of the commercial world means I look for and create alternative realities.  I've been researching ancient civilisations for years and recently came across a website which blew my mind.  I've been using symbolism in little ways for years - if people get the message great, if not then I can grin know that I've put it out there.  I'm looking for the reasons people are creative or consumer, and why the corporate machine wants us to be devoid of empathy, creativity (I know it's to create wealth, but I want to know why they need to generate such an incredulous amount).  I've written about druid and pagan associations with the organic world and I've now refined the concept to nearly an artistic statement of characters which are a force of nature.  We've got such a crap society we need to trace our roots to our higher minded ancestors and I want to create characters representative of that civilisation to be role models for people today to take us back there.

I'm trying to get to the bottom of the Annunaki and Nephilim stories to work out where the peaceful, druidic cultured race I'd like to think most people came from originated.  Using reference to elves via symbolism eg dragons and mythology, I'm depicting my concept of the graceful elder race, and the darkness they faced which has eventually turned into the mess of life we face today.  My characters such as Eris are what I want to depict in images to express who I want to see as I explore the massive subject more.  I want to have warrior queens; Gnostics who shine with insight and knowledge.  It's good symbolism, not black witchcraft occult to hurt people.  The meaning of occult is little know information, not nastiness, ghouls and demons.  I want to give life back to the druids- the wisdom teachers - and make them a force again to encourage people to think intelligently and independently.  Self awareness equals self assuredness.

Led Zeppelin wrote lyrics that are along the lines of what I'm exploring:

Kashmir

Oh let the sun beat down upon my face, stars to fill my dream

I am a traveler of both time and space, to be where I have been

To sit with elders of the gentle race, this world has seldom seen

They talk of days for which they sit and wait and all will be revealed

Talk and song from tongues of lilting grace, whose sounds caress my ear

But not a word I heard could I relate, the story was quite clear.

In a post on songmeanings.com someone said: "Led Zeppelin were fans of the author of the Lord of the Rings series, JRR Tolkein. This song, as well as several others, has many allusions to events in the series of books Tolkein wrote. This one in particular alludes to events from The Simarillion, which is the elves' history. If you read the book and then listen to the song, you will understand." 

I also find the lyrics to The Battle of Evermore are telling the same story:

The Queen of Light took her bow,

And then she turned to go,

The Prince of Peace embraced the gloom,

And walked the night alone.

Oh, dance in the dark of night,

Sing to the morning light.

The dark Lord rides in force tonight,

And time will tell us all.

Oh, throw down your plow and hoe,

Rest not to lock your homes.

Side by side we wait the might

Of the darkest of them all.

I hear the horses' thunder down in the valley below,

I'm waiting for the angels of Avalon, waiting for the eastern glow.

The apples of the valley hold the seeds of happiness,

The ground is rich from tender care,

Repay, do not forget, no, no.

Dance in the dark of night,

Sing to the morning light.

The apples turn to brown and black,

The tyrant's face is red.

Oh war is the common cry,

Pick up your swords and fly.

The sky is filled with good and bad

That mortals never know.

Oh, well, the night is long, the beads of time pass slow,

Tired eyes on the sunrise, waiting for the eastern glow.

The pain of war cannot exceed the woe of aftermath,

The drums will shake the castle wall,

The ring wraiths ride in black, ride on.

Sing as you raise your bow,

Shoot straighter than before.

No comfort has the fire at night

That lights the face so cold.

Oh dance in the dark of night,

Sing to the morning light.

The magic runes are writ in gold to bring the balance back.

Bring it back.

At last the sun is shining,

The clouds of blue roll by,

With flames from the dragon of darkness,

The sunlight blinds his eyes.

Characters like the May Queen living in an Avalon - the shining land - are those I want to depict, sometimes futuristic versions to show their resurgence - multi dimensional people sharing experiences, developing their psyches, learning about life and living; people with self awareness and self determination to shape their lives with a holistic approach alongside empathy.  It's my opinion we should be raising our mentalities and psychological awareness, not become dumbed down.

New Generation

After the introduction of the metallics trend is the continuation of fashion embracing science where we see the constant experimentation with fabrics, shapes, patterns, embellishment and ultimately, identity.  From Chanel’s space themed show with many references to spacesuits and rockets to work by a number of new designers this is escape from planet earth to augmented reality.  The Strange Nature story from WGSN particularly plays with the concept of going beyond organic with intensified colours and natural motifs such as florals to make dramatic feminine looks.  Knowing transhumanism is a developing concept it’s interesting to see how fashion is proceeding towards the brave new world.

                

We’re all going to live with the future of artificial intelligence.  Fashion is introducing it into our lives as tactile and attractive, with the lure of luxe fabrics and opulent embellishment to increase the appeal to flatter our sense of self being able to indulge in luxury and taste with an open mind to the future.  The mainstreaming of fetish could be interpreted as somewhat dehumanising and sinister; the jewelled masks covering the faces are definitely removing the human element, the jewel over the mouth reducing the capacity for verbal expression, keeping the wearer mute; a sinister aspect of transhumanism. 

The Urban Warrior theme is very Mad Max, post-apocalyptic and each fashion story is like a scene in a script of the future concluding with aliens and super natural surreality.  Are the metallic fabrics meant to be interpreted as a shell or exoskeleton?

Looking at the upcoming fashions as purely style, they are beautiful, seductive, sensual – a real fantasy where the imagination will be allowed to go into overdrive to create characters in theatrical fashion show presentations, and for a few, to develop self-awareness and enhanced personas.  Looking at some of the emerging designers, who comment on society, culture etc, I can see their new collections being an eccentric expression of future forecasting and I really look forward to that.  Seeing how it filters down to the high street will be interesting, the original strong meaning may be lost but somehow an understanding will be impressed in psyches and consumers will hopefully interpret it effectively. 

The Hyper-Human theme creates a human-meets-machine aesthetic, inspired by motorcycle design and sci-fi movies; in Future Fetish higher necklines and long sleeves provide a more accessible way for people to wear this look.  Urban Warrior is inspired by cultural movements such as Futurism. Layers use waterproof and heat-conserving fabrics for the survivalist.  

I can’t help seeing this as the representation of the bigger picture and how it’s being introduced to people’s lives.  As the ways for real self expression through talent, skills and thoughts are reduced, the methods of expression via use of the ego are becoming more concentrated; and we’re going to be judged on how attractive we are, how validated by others rather than having fundamental characteristics of a personality.  Just when you thought we’d got past that stage of low level consciousness it comes bouncing back.

Looking at the categories and descriptions of this trend it seems to be that alternative culture and art is becoming mainstream:  The positive side of transhumanism for people who wish to and are able to effectively express themselves is the cyber-creative.

Recent Heriot Watt graduate designer Hayley Rebecca Muir is influenced by nature and taking the natural world into future fashion, showing how creativity can be directly connected to the natural world with a timelessness reference to our ancient druidic and pagan past.

She's considered the influence of earth science, connections of landscapes, and formations of natural movements, shaping and formation of the body taking on traditional craftmanship fusing with innovative design in down to earth styling and editing creating rustic minimalism that is both timeless and futuristic, helping to portray your own personal character and have your choice of first impressions.

This shows the possibly subconscious resistance to technology overtaking the natural life force, how you can’t separate being creative from being truly human, utilising motivations and responses from our minds and our natural-world surroundings.  We’re organic beings and need a connection to our environment.

Another Heriot Watt designer Lucy Graham has described her concept poetically:

DOUBLE II

We are born as individuals, we grow embracing our unique identity

our unique features, bold ways, and beautiful markings

embracing all that we are, as we are, for who we are.

A lifetime of freedom, freedom to embrace

expressing ourselves in our own skin, finding ourselves

time is constantly changing and we are constantly chasing

but let we be reminded that Age is just a number

we will grow old and hold on to being bold no matter what the number

Fashion is my armour, but style is my identity.

My second skin to express my inner beauty

I modify and manipulate for you to see who I want to be

I have the option and the freedom no matter what my number

No rules, no boundaries just styled to suit me

So, remember that my number doesn’t make me invisible

I’m only wiser can you see age does not make me invisible

that real identity is built through style, which comes with age and wisdom.

I’m growing older and my wardrobes just getting bolder

Because fashion helped me be, and you to see the beauty within me.

A further designer to include in this cyber creative category is A V Roberston, whospecialises in embellished womenswear and accessories which launched in 2015 by Amie Victoria Robertson.  The London educated designer studied at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, graduating in 2014 with her unusual collection​ combining black oversized polo necks with cut out sections, clustered with hand made iridescent flowers.​  Her London Fashion Week debut in February 2016 with Fashion East attracted American designer Marc Jacobs to check out her 14-piece collection for Autumn Winter 16. The Show styled by Katie Grand was presented at The Tate Britain. The Designer based the collection on 'Alien wanderers falling to Earth,' their iridescent spores germinating in Earth's fertile atmosphere, bursting through seams and spreading across the backdrop of veering stripes and the collection signified the brand's trademark aesthetic, combining contemporary embellishment specific to the brand with casual, modern silhouettes.  She has also created a capsule collection for ASOS Black.

This aesthetic captures my styling imagination and interest in sociology, and one of my favourite styling stories is the future druid, taking the ancient lore of a spiritual race and showing how it is contemporary and beyond, relevant to a natural creative motivation which it’s clearly demonstrated is alive and kicking. Below are images from a shoot based on this concept.

Photography by Duncan Holmes, Make Up by Kirsten Hendry, Model Raya Mutch

KTZ menswear shoot

My final shoot as part of the London School Of Styling beginners course was the menswear shoot, working with designers KTZ and professional models hot off exclusive designer campaign shoots.  Here's my best images.

Magical day -

See last week I was talking about finding somewhere to live in the countryside?  Decided on the location - Aberfoyle in Stirlingshire.

I went for a walk there with my dad yesterday (route in the middle of the map is marked in white) and as you can see from the photos it's a stunning, magical place.  It's a village with amazing scenery, not that far from Glasgow by car.  The sun was baking down, the best day this year so far and we loved the lovely, perfectly named Faerie Walk.  We were walking for 2 and a half hours, blissful day!

 

Pigs basking in the afternoon sun! 

A montage of photos from the walk

Beautiful bluebell woods 

Countryside relaxes me so much, and I had been unwell in April, and getting out is always my best remedy after sleeping to get fit, so it felt like a real reward.

Designer profile - Cait

Here's a profile of English designer based in Scotland, Cait.

What were your earliest fashion influences?

When I was younger - between the ages of seven and twelve - I always used to go to a family friends house on a Saturday morning while Dad was at the gym. She loves to shop so we would often head down to the local shopping centre and have a rummage through the sales. As I grew up I would go off with my friends at the weekend and spend my pocket money on clothes and accessories. 

Which designers inspire and continue to motivate you?

While I have a general style that I go by - the designers from which I seek inspiration range from Tommy Hilfiger to Zuhair Murad. I love the tomboy style of Tommy - the baggy jeans and oversized sweatshirts really fit well with my personal style. The consistent use of two solid colours in his collections makes the clothes instantly recognisable - and of course the heavy use of branding. While not everything appeals to me - his vintage stuff is iconic. At the complete opposite end of the spectrum is Zuhair Murad with his intricate detail and use of soft, fine fabrics. I particularly adore the use of floral appliqué on neutral coloured fabric. The effect is so unique and just makes the whole dress look beautifully elegant. 

How did you get into designing?

I’ve always enjoyed buying clothes and styling myself but I had never considered making my own. That was until my Advanced Higher Art project came around. We had a choice of subject areas to explore, one of which was Textiles. I decided to go for it as I was so intrigued to learn how you make your own clothes. My aunt had some previous experience in making clothes so she taught me the basics and I went onto study Fashion Design and Manufacture at college.

Who inspired your personal style?

I wouldn’t say there is one person in particular. I follow a lot of accounts on Instagram that inspire me, for example Kendall Jenner, Hailey Baldwin, Sarah Snyder and Alice Catherine. Asos Marketplace as well, their Instagram features a huge variety of designers and boutiques. A lot of their stuff is vintage so they’re quite unique pieces which I also love.

Did you consider other jobs in the fashion industry?

I have a real interest in photography. Whilst on a recent holiday to Kenya I fell in love with photography all over again. Our rep said to me “you love photography but you just don’t take it seriously” and that will stick with me because he was so right. I would love to explore it more and see where it could take me.

What was your route to develop your career so far?

During my time at college, I featured in Jacki Clark’s Checkmate fashion show as both a model and a designer which I really enjoyed. I also organised and featured in (as a designer) a fashion show at the end of college which was a perfect end to a brilliantly insightful two years. I completed my HND in June 2016 and have since been working in fashion retail but continuously find myself wanting more and hope to leave soon.

What are your plans for the future?

Ultimately, my goal is to have my own clothing line. I have designed a collection which I’m very excited about - however I need to continue to work on it to make it the best it can be. Once I’ve made the clothes in the collection I hope to either model or photograph them and then get word out about it and see what happens from there. I would love to showcase my clothes at London Fashion Week one day. It’s a huge goal and at the moment seems very far away, nevertheless I’m a firm believer in you can achieve anything if you work hard enough.

What's the most important advice you can give to emerging designers?

Don’t listen to people who try to change you. No one knows your style more than you so if you like it, stick with it! Fashion is a form of art and art is very subjective, if someone doesn’t like your particular style it doesn’t mean it’s bad or wrong. Be honest with yourself and you won’t have any regrets. 

Follow Cait on Instagram.