We’ve just seen the political slogan trend reminding us of the potency of the fashion runway as a medium for protest showing clothing as an expression of identity and beliefs. Fashion reflects culture as a response and a relevant progressive art form like music. It’s no longer frivolous – if it ever was - it is a reference of mass consciousness which trend influencers develop so clothing has a voice rather than being the mute accompaniment to words; it's a character in the theatre, not only the costume.
In the first of the fashion weeks he made a strong case for fashion as resistance statement taking his bow in a T-shirt reading ‘This is what a feminist looks like’ and used the finale to express his politics with models wearing T-shirts reading ‘Revolution has no borders’, ‘I am an immigrant’, ‘I am a Rosa’ and to promote a fuller-figured catwalk model, casting Candice Huffine and Marquita Pring in the show. The clothes continued his strong woman theme with chunky wool sweaters and coats with quarterback shoulders alongside elegant materials and delicate colours, conveying a sense of female authority without the tired ‘sexy-equals-empowered’ concept.
Unfortunately politicism is being sold as a trend – commercialised and marketed and therefore diluted rather than having strong passion with a need for progress. I-D spoke to Bertie Brandes, freelance journalist, about Dior's "we should all be feminists" tee. "If fashion is the commodification of aspirational trends, which it is, this is a perfect example of a perfect product: aspirational in both price and politics," she explained. "That T-shirt is a hilariously sharp if unconscious depiction of how capitalism as an ideology will hijack literally anything to appear relevant."